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Hyundai Elantra IV used

Soplatformenniki and restyling
It was the Elantra HD that at one time became a pioneer in terms of using the new J4 platform, on which Kia Ceed and Cerato will be released a bit later, the ix35 crossover, the Tiburon coupe and much more. As the model of the “main” brand of the Korean concern, Elantra was the first to try on the Gamma family of engines, and even a hybrid version, which did not reach Russia.

Restyling of the model took place in 2008, however, it went almost unnoticed. Serious differences in terms of technology and design of the machines do not. Outside, the most obvious difference is the rear optics, and the “indicator” in the cabin is the dashboard. Before the restyling, there was a temperature gauge on it, and in the updated model, the temperature can only be seen on the optitron panel, which has temperature and level gauges in the center rather than on the right.

Are the Elantras well preserved, most of which are already over 10 years old? Do they differ in terms of reliability and operation from closely related Kia Cerato of the same years? In the first part we will deal with the problems of the body, interior, suspension and electronics, and in the second we will touch on the engines and transmissions.

Body
Maybe the Korean brands for corrosion protection as a whole and far from European ones, but specifically the Elantra HD is painted surprisingly well, and it, other things being equal, benefits from the second-generation Kia Cerato considered recently, even though the latter are of a smaller age.

Probably played a role not only the quality of paintwork and metal and seams, but also “licked” aerodynamic design. Large radii of curvature – it is also less stress in the metal, and greater resistance to corrosion.

Chip paintwork on the front edges of the hood and roof and on the arches are found, but not very often and not exactly everywhere at once. LCP “takes a punch” relatively well, and if it is shabby, then galvanizing gives the owner a lot of time to paint over the damage. Chips crawling slowly and reluctantly.

But in the car missing and non-galvanized parts. For example, the bonnet frame: from its holes and welding points, rust creeps to the front edge of the bonnet. The upper part of the front panel and the cross member under the bumper, as well as the end parts of the side members are also not galvanized. Small foci of corrosion on these elements are even on well-kept specimens.

Pay attention to the thresholds in the front. In addition to sandblasting damage, traces of “wiping off” curbs are relatively common, since the gauge is narrow and the thresholds, on the contrary, are wide. Pay attention to the condition of the paint in the doorway under the plastic lining – sand that has driven under it easily damages paintwork.

Below the car keeps well, but not perfect. The arches and the bottom are mostly clean and protected by a layer of anticorrosive and plastic panels. But fasteners, brackets are rusting, and rust is gradually spreading around the sides – but usually it is far from crime, only holes in the area of ​​the rear arches and the trunk can reach the holes, and this is a great rarity. But the fuel tank here is metal, and it rusts from dirt gathering on the weld seam and from above. Fortunately, his condition is easy to assess without removing – just open the process door, get the fuel pump and see the condition of the fuel filter screen. Traces of sand will indicate that the tank is rotten, the adsorber or one of the pipes.

Pay attention to the condition of the front edge of the subframe. It is carried far forward and low, as a result, it suffers from contact with curbs and ground. A rusty and crumpled subframe is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but potentially harmful to the geometry of the suspension.

That’s what bad quality – so it is glass. Frontal scratches easily and cracks even from weak blows or simply hot air from the “stove” in the winter. The side does not crack, but scratched just as well. Optics are most affected by fog lights, which are better not to turn on without special need “for beauty”.

BUMPERS THIN PLASTIC AND SILENT SIDE FASTENINGS, THERE IN THE CASE OF SMALL ACCIDENTS THE ITEM DOES NOT “PLAY OUT”, BROUGHTING OR REMOVED TO FASTENINGS, DAMAGING THEM. IN THE SUMMER, THE DENTS ARE DRAWNED ONLY DAMAGING THE PAINT, AND THERE, IN WINTER, THE CRACKING WILL BE A CHILDREN.
The larvae of the locks often turn sour – try opening the key and the door and trunk. Also check the power windows: from the point of view of mechanics, they are performed well, but the electrician fails – the system control unit, control buttons and wiring fail.

Doors surprise design. The entire filling is assembled on the shield, the window regulator and handles are fixed on it. To access the insides of the door, the shield must be removed entirely, with a window regulator. And even minor problems with the cables that connect the lock to the handle, can entail long repairs. Door seals strongly rubbed at the bottom, but water and noise in the cabin while not penetrate, except that a little dust on the thresholds.

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